Cobbles Kitchen & Deli: a birthday, brunch and the hard bagel?

Back when September was reigning and the sun was still shining (rather than setting at 5:30) we took a trip to the wonderful Ogmore-by-sea. It was my legendary mum a.k.a. Gale’s birthday.  With the family and new puppy in tow we walked to build up an appetite for the hotly anticipated day’s brunch at Cobbles Kitchen & Deli, Ogmore Road. 

After Beatrix (our Welsh collie pup’s) first tentative foray into the waves of the wild Welsh sea and the dipping of paws into the mysteries of the rock pools, we drove the short distance from the beach to the restaurant. As soon as we arrived we felt significantly at ease due to the number of COVID measures in place like a one-way system, mask wearing, hand sanitiser stations and bookings only. In a little section of the converted barn with white washed walls set with strings of fairy lights, draping plants and wicker accessories, we were seated comfortably at stylish industrial style metal chairs. We set about on deciding what to order; it was time to answer the age-old brunch question: to egg or not to egg?

As an egg sceptic myself (cue the hot take haters), it was rather an easy task to choose one of their lunch dishes and it didn’t take me long to spy their Cobbles Gyros, a cheeky flatbread topped with an assortment of veggies with the addition of panko bread crumb chicken (because who isn’t obsessed with topping everything with forms of crispy deep-fried chicken?). 

The birthday gal ended up choosing a delicious sounding breakfast bagel topped with bacon, fried egg, grilled tomato and leek and cheddar hash while the boys took a trip to sandwich city; dad opting for the American classic, the Reuben, and the brosky taking a punt on the British classic fish finger sandwich. Obviously, side dishes could not be avoided and so onion rings and chunky chips would be accompanying our assortment of bread related mains. While we waited we sipped on some coffees, trying to stop Bea from bolting in excitement and taking the table with her. 

When the food arrived, our eyes lit up and the growls of our stomachs intensified. The breakfast bagel looked particularly inviting with shards of crispy bacon peeking out and that egg yolk popping through the bagel hole like sunshine through a gap in the clouds. A surprising description from an egg sceptic but it’s not the egg yolk I have an issue with but the rubbery bland horror that is cooked egg white (a topic for another time perhaps). The sandwiches were stacked high with filling, a welcome sight, and my crispy chicken looked a golden delight atop a mass of vibrant vegetables and sauces. Time to dig in.

But, alas, this proved slightly more difficult than anticipated. A literal dig commenced for Gale to take her first bite, her knife and fork seemingly no match for what was potentially the hardest bagel known to man. While the flavour of the breakfast bagel was lovely and the hash and tomato concocted to make a tasty mouthful, it is safe to say that the great bagel excavation of 2020 put rather a dampener on such a promising dish.

While mum battled on with her bagel I was attempting to enjoy the most heavily laden flatbread I had ever seen. The vegetables, salad and sauce may have looked vibrant and inviting but a lack of seasoning unfortunately made for a pretty bland taste. What was supposed to be barbecue aubergine was mushy, the tzatziki and oregano tomato sauce was rather a tin of tomatoes, the shoe string fries were pale and limp and the tomato, cucumber and lettuce salad was well just that, chopped tomato, cucumber and some shredded lettuce. I hoped the chicken would be the wrap’s knight in shining breadcrumb and while it was moist inside with a crispy coating, again it lacked seasoning. The flatbread itself however was soft and fluffy and a smattering of pickle did help lift the pallet with some inspiring bursts of savoury vinegary goodness. Another promising dish but the iconic duo of salt and pepper were greatly needed to push it (get it) towards a tasty reality. 

Over in sandwich city however the boys were having a whale of a time, living it up with their Reuben and fish finger sandwiches. The toppings were piled sky high and for good reason as they were tasty as hell (sang in Lizzo tones only please). The beautiful slow cooked brisket was luxuriously coated with a blanket of melted cheddar. Having fallen foul of a lack of seasoning in the Cobbles Gyros, the usual suspect of fried white fish was seasoned, beautifully flaky and delicate with a whack of creamy mayo. The side dishes were also another highlight, their onion rings crisp, sweet and golden and their chips chunky and fluffy.

That September day’s Cobbles Kitchen & Deli outing was a tale of two halves: the first of sweet surroundings but hard bagels and bland gyros; the second of soaring seasoned sandwiches and sides. The kitchen and deli is a wonderful setting on the way to a beautiful beach with some great looking food and even better tasting sarnies. I’d definitely return to give their more traditional breakfast offerings a go or perhaps even a roast dinner, but make sure not to get sucked in by the promise of a gyros (even if it is topped with fried chicken).