Classic Spanish tapas has always been a family favourite. With every Lawler birthday celebrated at the now long gone but dearly missed and forever in our hearts La Tasca in the Cardiff Brewery Quarter. We would consistently order so many dishes that they would be brought to our table on a gigantic tray and would be spilling off the table once served. The absolute king of the menu was the Pollo Marbella; a creamy chicken dish with peppers, onions and a hint of brandy in the background. Check out our homemade attempt at recreating the latter and some other classics above.
Unfortunately, (the Cardiff) La Tasca is now a distant memory. The Lawler clan now had to find a new tapa joint to frequent at every major celebration. On my 18th birthday enter Bar 44 on Cardiff’s Westgate Street. It truly upped the ante with the chain feel not so obvious and the menu filled with traditional Spanish dishes sitting alongside more modern takes. The star-studded menu featured the old classics of gambas (yes, the gambas of pil pil fame), albondigas, croquetas and the mega star that is patatas bravas while also showcasing some up and coming talents like Welsh steak with watercress and truffled manchego or a confit duck burger.
However, we could have a new contender for the Lawler’s tapas top spot with Santiago’s Tapas, Church Street. A family run independent traditional Spanish and Cuban restaurant that has been open for a year. This restaurant first caught my eye when, one dreary and cold Saturday night, we had been turned away from Bar 44 because of an electrical outing and needed a warm place to eat some delicious grub. Santiago’s was bustling and the warm glow emanating from the door was irresistible. While it was full that night we had the opportunity to go again and it is fair to say it did not disappoint.
Santiago’s was the traditional tapas serving taberna we had been waiting for, with the chain restaurant feel completely absent and the hearty Spanish food present and correct. Once we ordered the plates were coming in hot and fast, firing at you from out of the kitchen, reminiscent of a trip to Barcelona and a traditional tapas bar. In this restaurant if you didn’t speak Catalan or at least Spanish you hadn’t a hope of ordering, with the waiters looking away absently while they took your order and literally throwing the plates on the table while they shouted an order to another table.
With all of this stunning tapa on offer in Cardiff why do we and other restaurants insist on tarnishing its name? Some restaurants seem to think that just because calamari are on the menu and they serve their small plates in terracotta dishes that this constitutes tapas. Don’t we think it’s gone too far when you call buttermilk chicken or gyozas tapas dishes?
There are many and varying origin stories for the moment the beautiful tradition of tapas was born. Some stories imply the tradition was borne of the 13th century King Alfonso X either making it illegal to serve alcohol without also serving food or him becoming ill and only being able to eat small portions of food, hence tapas. I would like to believe that it came from humbler origins, with bartenders serving wine with a coaster, or tapa meaning cover or lid, in order to keep the flies out and in turn acting as the perfect vessel for some slices of ham, Manchego cheese or some juicy olives. It seems that tapas has been used as a buzzword for far too long in order to draw the customer into the romanticised notion of a bottle of wine and some small plates (no wonder with its history) in order to distract from the lack of quality and flavour in the food.
This is not to say I do not enjoy another countries’ cuisine’s take on tapas. I have been privy to the delights of Argentinian inspired tapas (inspired being the operative word) at Chandos Social @ Otira in Bristol. This night was unforgettable, not least because Wales beat England in the Six Nations, but because of the food. They offered traditional croquetas alongside beef and bone marrow burgers, soft as butter lamb sweetbreads with an almost curried coating and charred cauliflower drizzled with herbed dressing (see above). Beautiful food, inspired by the Spanish concept of small plates but not claiming to be tapas in its own right.
To all restaurateurs and chain owners, this is a plea from the people (or maybe just me) to please give tapas a break. The well know chain of Mexican food, Wahaca, has taught us you can serve small plates and still be culturally appropriate by alternatively calling it street food. If you want to serve small versions of teriyaki chicken alongside pulled beef on crispy potatoes and some calamari just call it a small plate or a starter.
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